The church in Gelmeroda, on the outskirts of Weimar. It’s called the Autobahnkirche; you can see the steeple from No. 4; there are signs on the highway for it. Whether travelers routinely visit it or not, what a lovely idea it is to have it pointed out for you.

It was open. Serious 20th-c. art students may know it as the recurring model for the American cubist/modernist painter Lyonel Feininger. He lived in Germany, loved this Gothic church, was rewarded by having the Nazis label him as one of the Degenerate Artists, and so he returned to the US. The white stucco walls inside the small, almost tiny church are festooned with prints of his work; look him up if you have time.

The framing of this photo was of course to hide the sun behind the steeple but also to avoid scaffolding, from which a mason was performing major stone re-pointing to an outside wall. It is the loveliest setting: the church, the churchyard, the close neighboring well-tended houses, the point of the road, the goats in a small farmyard just up the street.

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